Acne can be especially embarrassing when it pops up in adulthood. Yet it’s not uncommon: up to 12 percent of adult women in the US suffer from facial acne, which persists into middle age, says a study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

“When adults come into my office with acne, they’re much more distraught than teens,” agrees Paul Cohen, a dermatologist at the Rosedale Dermatology Centre of Toronto. “For teens, acne is sort of a rite of passage but for women—especially those who start breaking out for the first time as adults—they can get quite upset by it.”

Whether you are prone to the occasional pimple or are experiencing a more serious skin problem, read on for ways to get clearer skin today.

A common condition
 “It’s a myth that acne is only an issue for teenagers,” says Cohen. Though some women have breakouts on their back and chest, where there are a lot of oil glands, most women get pimples on their chin and jaw line. As if adult breakouts aren’t tough enough to deal with—especially if you’re trying to combat wrinkles at the same time—they can even leave more of a mark, since older skin takes longer to heal.

 
The causes
Whether you’ve been dealing with acne since high school or just had your first breakout at age 35, these are some of the common causes:

• A family history If your mom or dad had severe scarring acne, you’re more likely to inherit the same problem.
• Withdrawal from the pill The birth control pill is an excellent treatment for acne, and going off the pill may trigger breakouts.
• Stress The stress response causes the release of cortisol, which can increase oil production and block pores.
• Rich anti-wrinkle products Using oily creams can also lead to breakouts.
• Dairy products Recent research links dairy intake to acne because many milk products contain hormones.
• Sugary foods A Colorado State University study suggests that a Western diet—highly processed carbs and sugary drinks and foods—may boost hormones and insulin—which stimulates oil production and clogs pores.
• Pregnancy The hormonal changes of pregnancy may aggravate skin problems.

 Hit the drug store if…you just have a few zits

Dry up pimples with a product containing benzoyl peroxide, such as Oxy 5 Vanishing Formula, $8. Stick to moisturizers that are specifically formulated for acne-prone skin, as well as oil-free, non-comedogenic make-up. See below for Cohen's recommendations.

 See a dermatologist if…your acne is scarring or if you have dark skin (which scars more easily)

A dermatologist will review your medical history to find out what’s causing your acne. If it’s a hormonal cause, she may prescribe one of the following treatments:

• The pill The birth control pill may help clear up hormone-related acne.
• Antibiotics Tetracycline and other antibiotics reduce inflammation and kill bacteria.
• Creams Retinol or tretinoin have exfoliating and anti-aging properties.
• Glycolic peels These peels exfoliate the skin, getting rid of oil and blackheads.
• Accutane This medication may cure persistent acne.
• Blue light illumination After a chemical called Levulan is applied to the skin, a blue light is shone on the face to kill bacteria and keep skin clear for up to one year without the need for other medication, says Cohen.
• Zeno Available at dermatologists’ offices, this new medical device destroys acne-causing bacteria and prevents pimples.

A healthy routine
When it comes to cleansing acne-prone skin, less is more. "If you wash acne-prone skin too often, you can make it worse.” Try the following routine twice a day:

Step 1: Wash with a cleanser that is specifically formulated for acne-prone skin and your own skin type.

Step 2: If your skin is oily, apply a toner all over, or in your T-zone (your forehead, your chin and the sides of your nose)

Step 3: Apply medicated products, such as benzoyl peroxide.

Step 4: Apply a sunscreen, followed with a moisturizer, in the morning.

 Depending on your skin type, choose from the following cleansers

For normal skin: Neutrogena Fresh Foaming Cleanser, $11.

For dry skin: Cetaphil, $16.

For oily skin: NeoStrata Oil Free Foaming Gel Cleanser, $25

For warding off wrinkles: Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cleanser for Acne-Prone Skin, $12.

Don’t squeeze!
It can damage the follicles, which could lead to scarring, says University of British Columbia dermatologist Jason Rivers. If you've got a big zit before an important event, visit a dermatologist for a steroid injection.